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PATINA

Patina n.f.: Aspect, coloring that certain objects or clothes take with time.

EACH MONTH, THE PORTRAIT OF A GARMENT AGED BY TIME, NARRATED BY ITS OWNER.

Austrian vintage Loden coat

Worn since 1975

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Daphné Hézard, Paris France

Patine De Bonne Facture

Could you introduce yourself ?

My name is Daphné Hézard, I'm a journalist & the Fashion Director of Monocle Magazine.

Could you introduce us to this coat? Where did it come from? How old is it?

It's an Austrian Loden Coat, it was sold at Façonnable at the time; it dates from 1975 approximately.

Did it belong to someone else before you? Did you buy it for yourself? Why did you buy it?

This loden belongs to my mother, but I nabbed it from her.

Do you remember when you first wore it?

I wore it every time I went to visit my parents in their home in the Alpes-Maritimes in France. It is a house in which I always felt cold, so I used to put on this loden which kept me warm and I did not remove it for the whole stay. I wore it both indoors and outdoors.

What are your memories of this piece ?

Memories of walks in the countryside. My parents always had lots of friends over on Sundays and the women always went for a walk after lunch. My mother wearing this loden coat with her friends made me think of Hannah and her sisters, the Woody Allen movie. And it's a piece that my mother wore when she went hunting with my father in Alsace. Everyone had a waterproof loden.

Are there any signs of wear and tear?

Yes, there are small holes, probably nibbled by moths.

Have you already repaired this Loden ?

No, never.

When do you usually wear it? Do you remember when you last wore it?

I've worn it a lot in Paris and now I only wear it in the countryside when I go shopping. With a pair of boots, and nobody realizes I'm going out in my pajamas.

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HUNTING DERBY CHAMBORD, PARABOOT

Worn since 2013

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Florent Linker, Paris France

Patine De Bonne Facture

Could you introduce us to those shoes ? Where do they come from? How old are they?

They are Hunting Derby Chambord shoes of the Paraboot brand, in size 9.5 bought in from Paraboot St Honoré boutique in Paris in 2013.

Did they belong to someone else before you? Did you buy them for yourself?

I bought them new, after a trip to Japan where I was able to rediscover these timeless styles.

Do you remember when you first wore them?

As soon as I bought them, I wore different models when I was younger but not this Chambord model.

What are your memories about these shoes?

These shoes are indestructible, I travel by scooter in Paris and the rubber sole makes it possible not to slip by putting my foot on the ground. You can wear them for a walk in the forest or for dinner at friends' houses.

Are there any signs of wear ?

There's wear marks, scratches, creases. The leather has become softer and more patinated, I prefer them like this than when I bought them. They will be even nicer from year to year.

Have you already repaired these shoes?

Not yet! The sole is beginning to wear out and become asymmetrical, but never wearing them for two days in a row can extend their lifespan. Wooden arms every night and regular maintenance and the trick is done.

When do you usually wear it? Do you remember when you last wore it?

I wear them all the time, at my architecture's studio, on the construction sites... in the evening. I alternate with other pairs of different brands. Trickers, Weston, Heschung... I invest in shoes that last!

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1970S VINTAGE PILOT JACKET

Worn since 1996

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DÉBORAH SITBON NEUBERG, PARIS FRANCE

Patine De Bonne Facture

Could you describe this jacket ? where is it from ? when is it from ?

This is an aviator jacket that belonged to my father. He flew small CESNA planes when he was young. It is khaki green, with a removable shearling collar. There is an "Aero Shopping France Paris" label inside, it is noted "size 2". There are a few technical details like inside drawstrings to fit the waist, shoulder tabs, or a outer pocket on the sleeve... I think he must have bought it in an aviation store when he was getting his license.

When did you see it for the first time ?

I found it in my family's dressing room when I was a little girl.

Do you remember when you wore it for the first time ?

I don't remember, I think I put it on and thought it was cool.

Do you have memories linked to the jacket ?

I went to middle school with it when I was 13 or 14.

Does it have wear marks ? Have you ever repaired it ?

The cuffs are more than frayed, nearly destroyed, otherwise i find it in pretty good shape, but I like used things. I never repaired it, I like it as is.

Does it have a particular value to you ?

Yes, it's a symbol, I loved the idea that my father was a pilot.

Do you still wear it ? If you do, when ?

I almost never wear it anymore ! It was the inspiration for the De Bonne Facture pilot jacket, and I wore it for the last time at the showroom, I still love it a lot.

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TURNBULL & ASSER TAILOR-MADE SHIRT

Worn since 2011

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ROBIN NOZAY, PARIS FRANCE

Patine De Bonne Facture

What is the story behind this shirt? Where does it come from? When did you acquire it?

This is one of my Turnbull & Asser shirts. I ordered it in 2011, when I was living in London. It is Bespoke, which means that it was cut specifically for me. It is quite a long process and the level of service is pretty crazy. They start by making you a sample shirt that you must wear and wash over and over. You then go back to them and they proceed to a few modifications on your individual pattern and they make you another sample shirt that you have to wear and wash like you did for the first one. This process goes on until they get your pattern perfectly right. They then use that pattern to cut you several shirts, the process takes several months.

Why did you buy such a shirt?

At the time, I had to wear a suit and tie to work every day and I just couldn’t find any shirt off the rack that would fit me properly. As a result, I spent more than a year wearing casual shirts and that just didn’t feel right. That’s why I decided to go bespoke. I made a quick round up of the different shirtmakers of Jermyn Street, which is home to several traditional shirtmakers, and I ended up choosing Turnbull & Asser. It is a respected tailoring house which is famous for having made Churchill’s pyjamas, and James Bond dress shirts. It was quite a step to take, because their minimum order is five shirts and they are not cheap!

Do you remember the first time you wore it?

I wore it the day I got it and I remember having a very eventful evening. When I woke up the next day it was still on me and it had a few Guinness stains. It was kind of a British baptism.

Do you have any memories related to this shirt?

I have tons. I have been wearing it nonstop since I got it, therefore it was on me on a few important moments. I remember wearing it to several oral admission exams I had to pass when I resumed my studies, to numerous interviews, and to some dates. I even wore it when I was house moving. I didn’t give much thought to wearing it during those events, it just so happens that it was there.

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